On Facebook recently [2012] there was quite a lively
discussion, as well as plenty of oooohhhing and ahhhhhing, amongst my assorted
friends about the tin (or is it copper?) reflector oven that’s depicted in the
painting below:
This is entitled simply “The Cook.” It was done by the Dutch
painter Gabriel Metsu (1629-1667) and was most likely completed by him at some point between
1657 and 1662.
Yes, you read that correctly: between the years 1657 and 1662.
Indeed, Metsu was a mid-17th century painter.
Now, I’ll be the first to admit it: I thought these ovens
were only in use during the 19th, maybe the very late 18th, century (at least
here in America). I’m not really sure why. I’ve used them often, but I’ve never
really given it much thought. I’ve never investigated whether they were
available/used earlier. Of course, I’ve done quite a bit of 18th century hearth
cooking, but my main focus has typically been the 19th. Not to mention, that’s
the time period in which I was initially trained (at Conner Prairie, back when the year 1836
was the focus). However, based on this painting, apparently reflector ovens
were around, even as early as the mid-1600s.
At the same time, though, it is a Dutch painting. So perhaps reflector ovens were common in
Europe, even during the 17th century, but were they also used on this
side of the pond? It seems likely that they may’ve been imported. Or perhaps
they were made here. However, I think it is generally believed that being a
tinsmith was more of an 1800s profession. You know, due to British control of
manufactured goods, that sort of thing. Or, perhaps not? It’d definitely be
interesting to research this further, and to look at store inventories,
newspaper ads, ship records, and other assorted documents, to see if, and when,
such ovens were made in, or transported to, the colonies.
In any event, when this painting and the ensuing discussion took
place on Facebook, I remembered a passage I’d read in Prospect Books’ facsimile
reprint of Hannah Glasse’s book, The Art
of Cookery, made Plain & Easy (1747). In the glossary is this
definition (and illustration) of “Tin Oven”: The reference to a tin oven, [on
page] 91, is to the ‘Dutch oven’ which was in common use and which stood in
front of the fire. The food being cooked was exposed to direct heat and also to
reflected heat from the polished tin interior. A door in the back could be
opened to permit viewing and basting.
Now, what’s interesting is that all the receipts on page 91 in
Glasse’s book are for fish, and only one specifically calls for cooking the
dish in “a Tin Oven.” It’s the receipt [recipe] “Salmon in Cases.” The
instructions say to wrap salmon pieces in paper and “lay them on a Tin Plate.” It
then states that “a Tin Oven before the Fire does best” (I imagine as opposed
to a brick bake oven). Which, of course, obviously means that the fish is not put on the spit!
So, in a typical tin reflector oven, where would you put a
plate of fish “in cases”? On the floor/bottom of it? But that puts it too low
in relationship to the fire, yes? So, in order to gain some height, could the
plate perhaps be balanced on top of the spit? Could that work, would it stay
securely? (I’m thinking maybe, but not likely?) Then I thought, “Well, perhaps
Glasse means one of those tin ovens with a shelf? The ones that are often used
for small breads (either loose or in a pan)?” And if so, does that mean those
types of tin ovens were also around in the early to mid 18th century? Makes
perfect sense, yes? Or no? And so, is there possibly a slight problem with this
glossary’s definition of “Tin Oven”: i.e. it’s not just the ones with a spit and basting door, but it’s also other
types?
Luckily for me, I was scheduled to cook again at the hearth in
the kitchen of the Israel
Crane House on Sunday, March 1, which meant I’d be able to conduct
my own experiments.
I could figure out just how this fish receipt was to be cooked.
What fun!
So, stay tuned!
For the results of Carolina’s experiment with reflector ovens, along with photos, see her blog article: https://firesidefeasts.wordpress.com/2012/03/15/a-tin-oven-before-the-fire-does-best/
*****
***** *****
Carolina Capehart,
who passed away in April 2017, dabnabit (one of her favorite words), was a
friend of those of us who study and report on the 17th century. This is my remembrance of Carolina: http://marybarrettdyer.blogspot.com/2017/09/big-respect-for-departed-friend.html
